Quercus Selección Ibérica

El sabor de la dehesa

El cerdo ibérico en la Sierra de Aracena

11 Enero 2013 Maestro Gourmet Artículos
El cerdo ibérico en la Sierra de Aracena

Un titular como "El Cerdo Ibérico en la Sierra de Aracena", ofrece unas amplias posibilidades descriptivas, tanto por la singularidad del marrano, como por la belleza de los parajes que constituyen su hábitat, la riqueza artesanal en la elaboración de sus productos y el magnífico recetario disponible, lo que sin duda, es el mejor legado histórico de la comarca. El cerdo ibérico es, posiblemente, el único y quizás último animal doméstico que aún mantiene una perfecta adaptación al medio en el que vive y del que se alimenta. Su especial genética y alimentación, en régimen de montanera de pastos y bellotas, lo convierten en un lujo gastronómico, inigualable en todo el mundo.

El ecosistema constituido por las dehesas arboladas del suroeste español, tiene su más espectacular exponente en el Parque Natural de la Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche, en el que el cerdo ibérico tiene una vital importancia, tanto cultural como económica. En esta comarca conviven la mayor parte de las variedades de cerdo ibérico existentes y además tiene el honor de haber contribuido exclusivamente con una de ellas, la variedad denominada "Manchado de Jabugo".

La tradición artesana en la elaboración de los productos del cerdo ibérico se remonta a tiempos de los romanos, siendo ya famosos los jamones de cerdos ibéricos "Pernae cerretanae del país de los ceretanos o manoplanos" según alusión del poeta Marcial. Sin embargo, es en el siglo XVIII, cuando la fabricación alcanza niveles pro-ductivos y organizativos más estructurados. Así, la Hermandad de San Antón Abad, en Cumbres Mayores, se constituye en 1.772 como "Cofradía de matarifes y arrieros". En las décadas de los años 1.930 y 1.940, la industria chacinera de la Sierra conoce un desarrollo floreciente, acomodando los adelantos tecnológicos a los principios artesanales de toda la vida, A partir de los años 90 ha sufrido una importante transformación al tener que adaptar sanitariamente sus instalaciones a la vigente normativa comunitaria, lo que supuso, aparte del consiguiente esfuerzo económico para los industriales, una acertada "puesta a punto" para poder competir en el amplio panorama del mercado comunitario e internacional.

Míticas localidades serranas, como Jabugo, Cortegana, Cumbres Mayores..., son históricamente la cuna del mejor jamón del mundo, donde mejor se sabe como cui-darlo y mimarlo para que alcance ese aroma y sabor incomparables. Aunque en toda la Sierra el jamón de prestigio se comenzó a producir hace siglos por pequeñas industrias artesanas, fue en las citadas y en otras localidades vecinas, como El Repilado, Corteconcepción, Los Romeros..., donde se consolidó la tradición y la fama de los jamones y embutidos ibéricos de la zona a partir de finales del siglo XIX. Parafraseando a Juan de Dios Hernández, se puede decir que la calidad de los productos de esta Sierra se debe a causas de origen climático, en las que se conjugan la luz de Andalucía y el frescor de las tierras donde conviven la encina y el alcornoque, con el castaño y el nogal, dando singularidad a la crianza del jamón y a la curación de los embutidos.

El recetario gastronómico de la Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche, basado en los productos frescos o curados del cerdo ibérico, es muy rico y variado, manteniendo como común denominador una gran sensibilidad y respeto a los sabores de las cosas, que en estos días es la base de la cocina moderna. De ser unos perfectos des-conocidos en la cocina, más allá de las zonas productoras y con la excepción del jamón, los productos frescos del cerdo ibérico están viviendo un magnífico momento culinario. Su ternura, sabor y fragancia sorprende gratamente a los más exigentes gastrónomos y paladares. Sin dejar atrás por supuesto sus embutidos artesanales y de gran calidad (caña de lomo, salchichón, chorizo, morcón, lomito, etc.) que completan esa oferta gastronómica alrededor del cerdo ibérico.

Los cerdos ibéricos, por su edad y alimentación, tienen músculos firmes y granulados, que ofrecen excelentes posibilidades para la degustación de sus carnes en fresco o en embutidos curados. La natural infiltración de grasa en su masa muscular les proporciona jugosidad y ternura, además de un grato sabor y aroma. Todo ello en contraposición con otras razas blancas y precoces, de músculos blandos y carnes acuosas, cuya comparación con el cerdo ibérico es desacertada por tratarse, de hecho, de dos productos totalmente distintos.

Las especiales características fisiológicas del cerdo ibérico, con un alto porcentaje de grasa y un bajo índice de transformación respecto de la cantidad de alimento ingerida, hace que este animal no sea competitivo en los conceptos modernos de producción de carne. Todo lo contrario que los cerdos célticos, blancos y magros, que se han convertido en "máquinas precoces" de producción de carne. Si a esto se une la menor prolificidad del cerdo ibérico, su más largo ciclo productivo, su más difícil manejo en régimen extensivo, la reducción de la superficie arbolada de las dehesas y las circunstancias económicas y sociales que han vivido los ganaderos de la zona, no es difícil comprender por qué el censo de madres ibéricas ha sufrido una reducción de más de un 90% desde el año 1.955 hasta hoy. En un intento de obtener lo mejor de ambos tipos de cerdos, ibéricos y célticos, los ganaderos han realizado su propia "ingeniería genética", consistente en cruzar los cerdos ibéricos con otras razas más precoces, especialmente la Duroc-Jersey, al 25%, 50% e incluso mayores porcentajes de esta última. Con ello se ha conseguido una mejor aptitud cárnica en los cerdos cruzados, en detrimento de la calidad de sus derivados, especialmente de sus piezas nobles, es decir, jamones, paletas y lomos.

Las aparentes ventajas del cerdo cruzado sobre el ibérico solo podrán ser vencidas cuando el consumidor, y por tanto el mercado, valore con objetividad y conocimiento los productos obtenidos de uno y otro cerdo. La calidad del jamón puro ibérico con respecto al jamón procedente de cerdos ibéricos al 50% es indudable. Pero a ello se ha opuesto además y de forma casi concluyente, la picaresca de muchos y la confusa información facilitada por gran parte del sector en los últimos años. La falta de tipificación de los productos, la ausencia de especificaciones técnicas y de calidad que los definan, la dificultad en la comprobación de la alimentación real de los cerdos y el obstruccionismo a la existencia de organismos que, como tercera parte, controlen y garanticen la calidad, han conseguido que el consumidor asista, perplejo y confuso, a un baile de nombres, apelativos y sinónimos de calidad, que solo han contribuido a que la fama del sector se vea seriamente dañada. La creación de la Denominación de Origen "jamón de Huelva", cuya zona de elaboración es prácticamente coincidente con el Parque Natural Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche, es una de las más claras iniciativas de la comarca para controlar la calidad de los productos amparados, jamones y paletas, para promocionarlos y, en definitiva, para garantizar al consumidor que la calidad del producto (jamón ibérico, caña de lomo, salchichón, chorizo, etc.) que adquiere se corresponde con lo indicado en la etiqueta y contramarca de dicha Denominación de Origen. Actualmente, con los medios técnicos y humanos adecuados, se debe conseguir infundir confianza en el mercado, andando parte del camino que, inevitablemente, conduce a que en este sector triunfe la transparencia y el rigor en lo que puede y debe constituir su principal lema, la calidad.

La implantación de sistemas de aseguramiento de la calidad, necesariamente contribuirán también a mejorar las condiciones higiénico-sanitarias de los productos y la imagen del sector en el mercado.

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